Finishing the tutu: tacking and decorations
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| Performance tutu with one round of hand tacks |
All tutus, even practice tutus, should be tacked. Tacking means that the layers of tutu net are sewn together. This ensure that the tutu looks even, moves well on stage and doesn't sag.
When tacking a tutu, two to three layers of ruffles are sewn together with some sort of tack, top to bottom. Tacks are placed around the tutu, every inch or so. Once groups of layers are tacked together (say 1-3, 4,-6 and 7-9), the tacked layers are tacked together. Tacking a tutu well is an art. When done well, the tutu looks and moves evenly.
If a tutu will be partnered the tutu
needs to be hand tacked. This means that hundreds of thread loops (or swing
tacks) are sewn
through the layers of tutu net. Each tack has to be sewn by hand and then tied
off. This is fiddly and time consuming. When I first started doing this, it
would take me days (about 2 hours per layer) but I can now hand tack a tutu
well in about 4 working hours.
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| Gun tacking a tutu using a price tagger |
A much quicker alternative is to gun
tack a tutu using a price tagger and plastic tacks. The down side of that type
of tacking is that the tacks will rip a hole in the tutu before breaking. That
is why this type of tacking is unsuitable for partnered tutus. You want the
tack to break rather than rip a hole in the tutu! Replacing a tack is easy,
replacing whole layers of netting is not.
Gun-tacking works well for corps de ballet tutus because it is relatively fast and inexpensive. With practice, a tutu can be gun tacked in under an hour. If you have lots of tutus to make, that is the way to go.
The only other thing you have to be careful of is the gun tagger's very sharp needle. I cannot tell you how many times (and how painful + messy) I tacked my thumbs or fingers to a tutu when I first started. Bleeding all over a tutu is not pretty.
If you have a small blood stain, good old spit, is a quick fix. A cold water soak, Oxiclean (tm) or other enzymatic stain remover are a longer term method of removing blood stains.
Once the tutu is tacked, it is a good idea to steam the tutu one more time. If the tutu seems to be flipping up too much, hanging the tutu right side up, giving it a good steam and then leaving it to hang overnight will usually solve this problem.
Dancer's sometimes complain about a "duck" or "turkey" butt on their tutu (i.e. that it lifts up at the back). Usually this is because they have been sitting in the tutu or leaning the back of the tutu up against something. The easiest way to prevent this unflattering look is to steam the tutu well and to not "hang-out" in the tutu before going on stage. In extreme cases, I have tied a big ribbon around the tutu, causing all the layers to slope down, and then steamed it. If the tutu is correctly made, this is unnecessary and you actually do not want to do this. Over time, gravity will work on the tutu, along with sweat, body heat, dirt etc. and the tutu will become less "perky".
At this point in the tutu building process, you will have a functional tutu skirt. Depending on the style (Russian, English, French etc.) a bodice can be added or attached, along with decorations.
To make the tutu more useful, decorations should be added to a so-called plate: a large circle of netting or fabric, which is tacked onto the top of the tutu. Plates can be removed so that the tutu can be more easily washed or cleaned and by alternating plates, a tutu can be used for many different roles.
Plates can have scalloped, pointed or other shaped edges. They can be very simple or very ornate. In some more contemporary tutus, plates can be shaped like playing cards, maps, chess pieces etc.
This is how a tutu is built. Check back for posts on specific tutus: Nutcracker, Sleeping Beauty, Swan lake and Romantic tutus from Giselle; tutu care, bodices, head pieces and other goodies
Once the tutu is tacked, it is a good idea to steam the tutu one more time. If the tutu seems to be flipping up too much, hanging the tutu right side up, giving it a good steam and then leaving it to hang overnight will usually solve this problem.
Dancer's sometimes complain about a "duck" or "turkey" butt on their tutu (i.e. that it lifts up at the back). Usually this is because they have been sitting in the tutu or leaning the back of the tutu up against something. The easiest way to prevent this unflattering look is to steam the tutu well and to not "hang-out" in the tutu before going on stage. In extreme cases, I have tied a big ribbon around the tutu, causing all the layers to slope down, and then steamed it. If the tutu is correctly made, this is unnecessary and you actually do not want to do this. Over time, gravity will work on the tutu, along with sweat, body heat, dirt etc. and the tutu will become less "perky".
At this point in the tutu building process, you will have a functional tutu skirt. Depending on the style (Russian, English, French etc.) a bodice can be added or attached, along with decorations.
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| A sugar plum tutu comes together |
To make the tutu more useful, decorations should be added to a so-called plate: a large circle of netting or fabric, which is tacked onto the top of the tutu. Plates can be removed so that the tutu can be more easily washed or cleaned and by alternating plates, a tutu can be used for many different roles.
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| Sugar plum tutu with a very simple plate added |
This is how a tutu is built. Check back for posts on specific tutus: Nutcracker, Sleeping Beauty, Swan lake and Romantic tutus from Giselle; tutu care, bodices, head pieces and other goodies
Hi Hilary,
ReplyDeleteThankyou so much for sharing your knowledge. Next time I have a go at including any tutu inspired designs to my work I will be much more informed on the subject. Keep up the good work.X
You are welcome.
ReplyDelete