The start of a classical tutu

How to make a professional tutu:

The start of a classical tutu:

Before anyone starts on the journey of making classical tutus,  I think it is important to stress that while it can be a lot of fun, it is neither "quick" nor "easy". Tutu makers do not talk about sewing a tutu but building one, as it is closer to an enginering project than a fashion statement.
A wonderful book, that explains how to make a classical (please,  calling them pancake or worse platter tutus is just incorrect, they are not food or a serving device) tutu is Claudia Folts' book the Classical tutu (available from Tutu.com). Tutus that Dance also sells instructions on how to build a tutu.
An average classical tutu uses about 10 yards of tutu net (also called diamond hole net, Balanchine net or crinoline; this is not craft net or "stiffened" tulle) but can also be made out of tulle or a mixture of netting and tulle. 
From start to finish creating the tutu skirt will take a novice a minimum of eight or more working hours; for a complete costume (skirt and bodice) even an accomplished tutu maker takes between 20-25 working hours, depending on the complexity of the bodice and the amount of embellishments and if the tutu is hand or gun tacked.

o silver brocade basque and cotton tutu pants

Powernet tutu pants and basque

Tutus are built on a pair of panties or knickers, which are later sewn to a basque (a piece of fabric, waist to hip, which can be the same as the bodice or different). The pants are made of a stretchy fabric called powernet or can be made out of cotton bobbin net. Powernet is strong, washable and not too expensive. Cotton bobbin net is fairly strong, comfortable but is expensive ($30.00 + per yard) and has to be pre-shrunk because it can shrink up to 30%.
I have always used power net because the tutus I make have to be worn by many different dancers and so have to stand being altered often. I also make a gross grain waist band with elastic, so that the tutu is adjustable at the waist.

Both power net and bobbin net only come in white, nude/off-white and black but can easily be dyed to a color to match the tutu ruffles.

Tutus, especially those that will be used for partnering, need to fit well. Having a tutu that is too big can present a serious safety risk during partnering, because the partner cannot get a firm grip on the dancer. Some fabrics, such as satin, or some types of brocade are not suitable for tutu basques because the fabric is too slippery,  has too rough a texture or stretches too much.

To ensure that the ruffles are sewn on evenly, lines are drawn onto the pants with a washable marker or tailor’s chalk and then the lines are stitched with a lightly contrasting thread. I use an egg shell colored thread for white tutus and a dark charcoal grey for black.