How much??? charging what your time and work is worth

In this post I am going to talk about a touchy subject. What should one charge for custom work and what are reasonable expectations that customers can and should have when working with a costumer?
Due to the internet and cheap imports of clothing from China, many of us have the expectation of being able to buy a dress, skirt or even ballet costume for $20.

 There is a huge difference though in quality and fit between something mass produced and an item made, by hand, by a costumer. "Internet" tutus are often made with inferior materials such as hexagonal "craft" net, or stiffened cotton fabric. "Real" tutu netting can cost any where from $1.25 p/y to $25.00 p/y (this depends on color, glitter, sparkles, and stiffness) and a proper, professional quality, tutu has about 10 yds of pleated netting in it. Professional tutus are "built" not just sewn on fabric panties. This fabric can cost between $10-$40 p/yd.
Like all beginning costumers, I know I do not charge enough for my work. I recently made some bodice overlays and tutu plates which ended up being just above cost.  For each step, I sat with a timer, timing how long it took me to cut out, pin, glue, sew etc.etc. I now know have a much more accurate idea of how much time it takes to make things and can charge accordingly. Minimum wage in NY is $7.50 p/h, I have always calculated $10.00 p/h as my work is more "skilled" labor but honestly, that is dirt, dirt cheap. My 14 year old daughter was hired to do a house cleaning job and got paid $15.00 p/h ?! so I think it is only right and proper that I will be charging more in the future.
How much time does it take to make a professional tutu? I recently created a tutu and it took me 8 hrs of cutting, pleating, sewing, steaming, tacking and finishing.  I have made over 100 tutus in the last few years so it takes me a lot less time than a novice to sew a tutu, but at $10 p/h that is still $80.00 just for the labor. To hand-pleat a (top) layer, it now takes me, about 20 minutes but if I am pleating tulle, it takes longer.
This tutu was also a "plain" tutu, without a bodice, hoop, hand tacking and no additional decorations.
Making a tutu plate, with lace, appliques, crystals, feathers or other decorations can take a few hours and the materials (lace, trims etc.) are not inexpensive. Rhinestones range in price from $20-$45.00 per gross (144 pieces) depending on color, size and brand.
What about headpieces? Again, when you buy something from a costumer, you are getting hand work. If the tiara is made on a wire frame, these frames are bent to shape and then the crystals are wired on, one by one, and by hand. Something as "simple" as a Swan headpiece, which consists of feathers on a felt shape, still has to be hand-sewn and glued. The shapes are cut by hand and have individual loops sewn to them so that the headpiece can be pinned to the dancer's hair. The "right" types of feathers are also expensive and are seasonal. At one point, my wholesaler had the hackle pads on back order for 3 months due to the bird flu scare in the Far East.
As with everything in life: if it seems too good to be true, it probably is. A professional tutu (with a bodice, decorations etc.) will cost around $500 and up, headpieces $25.00 (super simple, with few, inexpensive decorations) and up.  Can you find something cheaper online? Probably, but will it really be worth it? probably not.