Swans and flowers and tutus oh my

 I haven't posted for a while due to the large amount of work I have had on recently.
After finishing the Civil war ball gowns I had to hustle to full fill an order for Swan lake bodice overlays and plates for a customer, make a dress, veil and hats for my brother's wedding, sew 20+ costumes for a local dance recital, work on a gold metallic tutu for a customer and work on an enormous number of alterations.
First things first. A customer contacted me about Swan lake tutu decorations. I began by drawing a number of sketches for the customer so that she could choose what she liked and could afford.

Sketches of bodice overlays.

After that I ordered the rhinestones (Rhinestone guy's premium hot-fix crystals which are awesome), selected trims, cut the bodice overlay shapes, cut out 164 fabric "feathers" and the wing shapes.

fabric "feathers" for San lake plates

To make the bodice overlays, I pinned then sewed a false nude panel and silver rim onto netting, then glued hackle feathers and applied hot-fix rhinestones.

Swan lake bodice decoration overlays

To make the swan wing shaped decorations, I pinned and appliqued the feathers to heavy duty interfacing shapes, sewed this onto netting plates and applied the hot-fix crystals.

One swan lake tutu plate.

The basic technique and patterns for these tutu decorations are described in Claudia Folts book: "Finishing touches".
Next I worked on several items including a 1920's inspired wedding veil for my brother's wedding. I will write a separate post on that.
Next I worked on a large project of 20+ costumes for a dance recital. The theme of the performance was the parable of the sower and the seeds. The smallest children in the recital were to represent seeds being planted in the earth and then sprouting into beautiful flowers. My idea for the costumes were earth toned t-shirt, tights and tutus with petals that would drop down to "reveal" tulips, roses, sunflowers, daisies, clover and morning glories. The middle group of students were to be dancing princesses and the oldest dancers were to represent a gardener tending flowers (hyacinth and lavender).

fabric petals for 9 children's sprouting flower costumes

For the little children's costumes I ruffled large amounts of earth toned tulle, which I sewed to elastic waists, over which two rows of brown and colored petals were stitched. Ribbon loops were attached to the brown side of the petals, and when they were tied up with ribbon, the children looked like little brown seeds. Once the ribbons were untied, the petals dropped down to reveal their "true" colors.
For each of the dancing princesses I made flowered circlets with hand-made ribbon flowers on them, and tulle and ribbon streamers (the technique for this is also described in Claudia Folts' book, "Finishing touches").

Flowered "princess" headpiece with ribbon work flowers

For the dresses I drew out a new pattern combining elements from an old "Gunny Sachs" and "Daisy Kingdom" pattern. The dresses were made of pink, lavender and cornflower blue crepe with wide chiffon "princess" sleeves.

The beginnings of six "princess" dresses

Finished princess dress with headpiece

Lavender dress

Cornflower blue

For the oldest group of dancers, I made two Romantic length "petaled" tutus, with green tights, and top and for the gardener a yellow cotton and chiffon dress. The dancers representing the flowers had green velvet and ribbon work headbands, while the gardener wore a purchased straw hat. To reduce the fullness of the petaled tutus, I quilted the tulle along the hip line.

"Hyacinth" petaled tutu

"Lavender" petaled tutu

Green velvet and "lavender" ribbon work flowers

Finally I received an order for a custom made, gold metallic tutu. I loosely based the coloring and design on the Gold Fairy tutu I had made for a performance of Sleeping Beauty.  Key difference were that this tutu did not have as many layers of double hand pleating in it (three layers instead of 6), used some gold metallic mesh, a different type of enhanced sparkle net (purchased from Tutu.com) and a black basque instead of a gold basque. 

Gold mesh and gold enhanced sparkle nets

Original design + notes for the "Gold" fairy from Sleeping beauty

As for the original tutu, I did dye some of the tutu net and the pants a rich gold. I also, spray painted plastic tacks with gold metallic paint to hide them during tacking.

Bottom of tutu with hand-pleated god mesh and dyed to match panties.

The finished tutu looks very even and will be going out to the customer in the next day or two.

 

Completed gold tutu with black powernet basque

My plans for this summer are to work on custom leotards (I will post about this soon as I have started on the first 4 samples), go to Tutu.com's tutu school again (this time to learn men's costuming) and finally work on building some rental costumes for the fall.

Odette, Odile and Diana: more tiaras, crowns and headpieces

Gold lace and Swarovski hot fix crystal headpiece in Tanzanite and pinks.

The last few weeks have been so much fun for me with designing and making more ballet headpieces. I continued to work on the headpieces I had been making and finished both the gold and fuschia princess ones and the silver Diana one.

Silver Diana headpiece with large crystals AB and Swarovski ligh sapphire stones

Then I received an order for an Odette (white swan queen) headpiece from a dancer in California, so I finally had enough in the kitty to purchase supplies. When the packages arrived from the whole salers it was just like Christmas: all those gorgeous sparkly stones, real Swarovski teardrops, briolets and several gross vintage Precosia rosee montese and snowy white hackle pads. While waiting for my packages I had made the felt shapes for the feathers and my husband had made the wire frame.
The day the supplies arrived I set to work and by early evening I had a feather shape and the beginnings of the jewel:

Start of an Odette headpiece

Ideally, you need to try the feather shape on the dancer so that you can trim the feathers but since I could not do that I tried the headpiece on my daughter and then carefully trimmed, glued and sewed the feathers in place. The difference between this head pieces and the original one I made for Leila was remarkable. Real stones are just so much more sparkly and having the right shape to the feathers is more elegant.
Don't get me wrong. Leila looked stunning in her costume and the headpiece was beautiful but the new headpiece was just more so. Judge for your self:

original Odette headpiece

new Odette, sent to California

Now that I have so many beautiful supplies I am going to create another Odile (black swan) headpiece and I have been drawing designs for a slew of other ones. I am especially inspired to make some beautiful  fairy ones. I'll keep you posted on how that  goes.

Spanish skirts and practice tutus

Several weeks ago, I blogged about the Spanish skirts and the practice tutus I had been making. Thanks to Stephanie Harris of Harris photographyhttps://www.facebook.com/pages/Harris-Photgraphy/366353280120806?ref=ts&fref=ts and Annelise, Catherine, Bridget and Gabrielle, soloists and senior dancers at the Ithaca Ballet for participating in my first photo shoot.
The costumes highlighted each individual dancers unique beauty and style (and I ran out of adjectives to describe them; I mean how many ways can you state the obvious that these girls look magnificent?!)

Bridget and Catherine look gorgeous in these Spanish skirts

 Bridget looks regal and beautiful in this four tiered Spanish skirt in black and

Soloist Catherine embodies a Spanish princess in this Spanish skirt with matching mantilla and rose headpiece

Annelise personifies the icy beauty of the Snow Queen.
This costume includes a stunning Russian style headpiece

Practice tutus are available for sale at my Etsy site or via SharpSewingNY facebook page.

These tutus are perfect for class: 

Practice tutus in pink, white and black
Perfect for class 

 

Rehearsal: 

Catherine soars in her practice tutu, customized with a double hand-pleated top layer.

Or Performance:

Catherine, Bridget and Annelise take a bow

Catherine, Bridget and Annelise

Soloists Catherine (at left) and Annelise (at right) model their practice tutus
Catherine's tutu has a double hand-pleated top layer and Annelelise's tutu is custom sized.

The dancer's also modeled some of the custom made items that I offer:

Annelise models a custom made Sugar plum performance tutu

ruffle, ruffle, ruffle= new tutus and some Spanish skirts

I finally bit the bullet and have made a start on new tutus. One of my big dreams is to build a collection of costumes to offer for rent or sale and have real live people rent or buy them. My dreams are big but my budget and wallet are not. Also, very few people "know" my work.  Seriously, would you shell out upwards of $500 to a complete stranger to make something for you? No, neither would I.
I am hoping though that a few people might be willing to take a chance of renting something, see the quality of my work and then decide to buy.
Efin, what have I started making?
Over the summer I attended Tutu.com's tutu school and besides working really really hard, I learned to make some beautiful items including Spanish skirts. I also went to a mill store with my mother and found some wonderful black and burgundy fabric which just had that Latin feel to it.

A Spanish skirt takes between 40-42 yards of ruffled lace trim which even at the low price of 50 cents a yard gets pricy. You can imagine how  happy I was to find several yards of lovely burgundy lace at a thrift store for next to nothing. All it required was for me to cut it into strips and ruffle it.

Strips of lace to be ruffled for trim

Next I cut out the fabric for the under skirt and the four tiers of ruffles and started ruffling.

Underskirt, lace strips and fabric ruffles

Ruffling lace for trim

After ruffling lace for what seemed like days, I sewed my trim to the fabric layers of the skirt and then went back to ruffling the fabric layers.

First ruffled layer sewn onto underskirt

After each layer was ruffled, it had to be pinned and sewn onto the underskirt. The fabric I used didn't ruffle as tightly as the sparkle organza I had used previously so I spent a lot of time pulling up the gathering threads. Still as each layer was sewn on the skirt began to take on a lovely shape.

layer 2 sewn on, half way there

Layer 3, one more layer to go!

Once I reached the top layer, there was a lot of lace and fabric but the skirts really looked good. After the top layer was sewn on, the basque was attached, then hooks and eyes and voila, a super ruffly Spanish skirt.

The other projects I worked on was a tutu for a competition. I decide to use a stretch satin to make the bodice and basque since i had found 12 yards of it a local thrift store again for next to nothing. The fabric was great to work with (surprisingly easy) but once made I was not happy with how it looked.

The Snow Queen (by Hans Christen Anderson )

costume

The sheen on the satin made the whole ensemble a little too Halloween costume like. Good news was that the costume was for a Halloween contest but it wasn't what I had originally envisioned. I may some day remake this in a silk chiffon.

Kokoshnick style headpiece

Together with dh, I did make a stunning headpiece. It was done as a Russian kokshnik, with silver mesh, diamante jewels, crystals and some lovely trims. The front diamond was made of a vintage diamante triangle (possibly it was a brooch or a belt buckle).

white practice tutu

The final thing I worked on were three practice tutus, two black and one white. Thanks to all I had learned at tutu school (and the fact that I had surpassed the 90th tutu mark) these went together much, much easier than in the past and the result was even better.
My next project will be to finally take the online craftsy class, the couture dress, I started on this summer and give tutus a rest for a few weeks.

Swan lake on Stage

Leila Drake as Odile

Swan lake on stage:

I have to confess that Swan lake is not really my favorite ballet. It can be either overly dramatic or if the principles are not strong Odette can be insipid and Siegfried a bit of a fop. If the corps de ballet is only a bit off, than it just looks bad. If it is done well, it is wonderful but since Swan lake is "the ballet" it often is not. Like Nutcracker, it can be done to death.

Queen mother and Siegfried (Ryan Camou) Swan lake
 (photo credit Johann Studier)

This performance of Swan Lake was done well. The dancers looked fabulous and they moved as one.The two principles Leila Drake and Ryan Camou were wonderful to behold. No insipid or foppish characters here. Leila Drake was a strong, yet vulnerable Odette with flawless technique. Ryan Camou was dashing as Prince Siegfried. His lifts and jumps were effortless. Together Leila and Ryan made their roles come alive and made this performance of Swan lake exciting to watch.
Here are some great photos and a short video clip so that you can judge for yourself. Swan lake dress rehearsal: Little swans on stage

Leila Drake as Odette & Ryan Camou as Siegfried
Swan lake 2012
 (photo credit Johann Sudier)

Leila Drake as Odette & Ryan Camou as Siegfried
Swan lake Act 2
 (photo credit Johann Sudier)

I tried uploading some small video clips of Swan lake on stage but I was unable to do so. Instead I have added a few more photos of Swan lake on stage.

Leila Drake as Odette and Ryan Camou as Siegfried
 Swan lake
 (photo credit Johann Sudier)

 Swan lake Act 2, 18 swans on stage
 (photo credit Johann Sudier)

 Swan lake, Act 4, 20 swan on stage
 (photo credit Johann Sudier)

Leila Drake as Odette, Swan lake
 (photo credit Johann Sudier)

Swan lake, Swans
 (photo credit Johann Studier)

Swan lake: Leila Drake as Odette, Ryan Camou as Siegfried
 (photo credit Johann Studier)

My apologies for the quality of this video clip but this was the only one I could get to work. This was taken during the dress rehearsal of Act 2 of Swan lake. Leila Drake as Odette, Ryan Camou as Siegfried.
There are no photos of Leila as Odile on stage. I have included one here of her in the studio in the costume I created:

Leila Drake of State Street Ballet as Odile