Let me say, making a pair of well fitting, men's pants is hard! No wonder tailors used to have apprentices work for them for years. At a tailor's there are many specialized jobs: a cutter, a draper, a shirt maker even a button hole maker.
In this project I reverse engineered a pattern from my husband favorite pants, then set about making new pants from a quality linen.
One of the things that is difficult (and different on dress pants) to draft is the pockets. Jeans have patch pockets in the back and an appliqued pocket on the front. Both types of pockets were discussed in the online class that I took.
I started by thread basting all the seam lines and the lengthwise and cross wise grains. After that everything was transferred to a piece of organza; then I made a paper pattern and then I cut out a muslin.
Original pants thread basted |
Dress pants have inset pockets, front pleats and back pockets with welts. It is very difficult to draft a good pocket pattern from the actual pants. Also, these were Australian pants, and they have some interesting (and highly desirable) features, including a change pocket hidden under the waist band.
After trying several things, becoming terribly frustrated because they just were not right, I broke down and bought a men's Vogue pattern. It had the inset pockets, the welt pockets and most importantly the instructions! Reading those was such an "aha, erlebness". Nothing is hard once you can "see" the solution. After that I sewed those pants up in no time flat (less than hour).
the pants! are ready to try on |
Voila! here they are. I tried them onto dh and by golly they fit perfectly. Alas, once I put the waistband on they seemed a bit snug, so I had to let them out a bit. After finishing them, I pressed and hemmed them, hung them up and forgot about them. The next day, dh asked me: Well what do you think of my pants? I gave him a strange look because I did not realize these were the new ones?!
That means I must have done a good job right?
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